Oil changes are something most of us do ourselves, but for those of us who don't, here's a write up on about how easy it really is.
What you'll need:
Mitsubishi Oil Filter and Crush Washer: ~$8.00
Fully Synthetic 10W30 5 Quart Oil Jug: ~$23-$25
Oil Drain Pan
Oil Filter Removal Tool
Jack Stands (2) - Optional
1. An oil change typically goes faster with a warm engine. If you don't have a warm engine, then give the car plenty of time to drain, or go drive it around the block a few times. If your engine is warm, give it time to cool down. The oil at the bottom of the drain pan is typically cool enough where it won't burn you, just be careful as the oil drains, the oil closer to the engine is near engine temperatures.
2. A few common supply needs.
3. Here you'll see I've located the oil filter and drain plug. My drain plug has a wire coming out of it because I have the oil temp gauge installed from the factory. Those who don't have this will just have a bolt.
4. Start by loosening the drain bolt. After removing the drain bolt, I'll let the oil drain for about 10 minutes, or until there's about 2-3 seconds between drips.
5. When the oil pan is dripping, I'll remove the oil filter. I use a tool for this, but those who can get a good grip and angle on it can usually use your hands. This is extremely messy. Be sure to have some paper towel handy.
Here you see the oil filter completely removed.
6. After allowing the oil to completely drain, wipe everything clean with paper towel for the new filter.
7. You can get away with about 2 - 3 oil changes for one crush washer, but for the ~$1 cost at the dealership, I change it every time. I had to use a small flat head screw driver to separate the crush washer from the bolt. Place the new crush washer on and hand tighten the bolt on.
8. Mitsubishi pre-lubricates their rubber gaskets on their oil filters for you, but I recommend taking some old or new oil and lubricating that gasket before installing. Good piece of mind. If you're not using a mitsu filter, then make sure you have plenty of oil on that gasket for a solid seal.
9. Install everything and tighten everything down. The filter should be hand tightened. I don't recommend using tools to install the new filter. A damaged filter should not be used. The drain plug can be tightened using tools, but don't over-tighten, as you could destroy the crush washer. Use your best judgment.
10. Pour approximately 4.8 Quarts of 10W30 Fully Synthetic Oil into your engine. I buy my oil in 5 Quart jugs, so I typically put the entire 5 quarts in the car and don't have any issues with over filling. Tighten down the oil cap on the engine.
11. Start the engine, rev it a couple of times, let it idle for about 15 seconds and shut the engine down. Check for any leaks around the filter and drain plug. I'll usually take the car out for a short drive after I'm done cleaning up just to make sure everything sealed properly. The car may be hot after this, so be careful.
12. Check your oil levels. Take this time to do other minor checks on the engine bay if you're not prone to open the hood at gas stations when you fill up.