Ok here we go.. Sorry for some of the pics there kinda crappy but you get the idea.
Here is the untouched engine bay.
First thing you wanna do is pull the battery, ic piping, battery tray, maf, all sensors and and clips, shifter cables ect... from the top of the transmission. If your struggling at this point stop and get help!
Dont lose the small clips that hold the shifter cables on.
They go here, the blue arrow is the shift cable.
Little note. Dont disconnect clutch line from slave cylinder. Two 12 mm bolts hold the slave cylinder to the transmission. Use caution thought it has pressure behind it. Once the two bolts are removed you can simply and carefully move the slave cylinder out of the way. I use zip ties to keep things out of the way.
Once your on jack stands your gona need to go back under the hood and remove the speed sensor. This is held on by a 10mm bolt.
Once this is removed remove the clip then unplug it. Once its unplugged reinstall it to keep any dirt ect from getting in the transmission. Dont lose the clip.
(EDIT) There is numerous plugs on the top of the tansmission that need to be unclipped, and moved out of the way.
Once you get the above completed time to get it on jack stands. Keep in mind you need a minimum of 15 inches to get the transmission out from under, provided your doing it without a lift.
Ok time to get under the car, Remove lower engine cover (plastic undertray), along with the two lower tie bars. While your down here its the perfect time to drain the transmission. The drain plug is 24 mm.
This is the plug
this is the plug clean
While the transmission is draining remove the down pipe. Be sure to support the rest of the exhaust so it is not just hanging there.
Next is starter, first thing you want to do is take of the shield. Next disconnect the positive battery cable which is a 12 mm. Also need to disconnect the ground. There are two starter bolts. One will be right in front of you as your laying there, the other come in from the drivers side. Now hang on to the starter or your gonna have a bump on your head.
(EDIT) There is two cross bars that run from frame rail to frame rail under the car that need to be removed. THey are all held on by 17MM. There is two bolts on one bar and three on the other. After removal i thread the bolts back into there holes to revent them from getting lost.
Now the transmission should be drained by now so you can close it back up, and get the drain pan out of your way,
Next is axles
Remove cotter pin, the axle nut 1 1/4 inch, washer place them somewhere wher they wont get misplaced.
Air or electric imact will make short work of this. If you do not have either your gonna need a friend to hold the brake pedal or find some other way to secure the rotor from turning.
Next I removed the lower balljoints. 17mm
I have a little trick I use that helps the ball joints slide out. I stick as prybar in the gap at the back of the hub to take pressure of the balljoint, wich helps it come out easier. be carefull not to tear the boot thats around the balljoint.
Then I removed tie rod.
Removing the sway bar link from the control arm will make getting the axle out much easier. These are 14mm. The passenger side come apart the same way.
Now use a block of wood on the axle and pound it through the hub. You should be able slide the axle all the way out now.
To remove the axle from the transmission, you can use a prybar and with a little ass behind it the axle should pop right out.
Next is the shaft that runs between tansmission and transfercase. You can try and use a prybar to get this out but i didnt have luck doing it that way. A slide hammer here will make your life much easier. I used a slide hammer that had a puller attachment on the end of it. I threaded a 8x1.25 bolt into the shaft and with a couple shots it was out.
Now back under the car. Loosen the the three 17mm crossmember bolts but dont take them out yet. Remove the 14 mm that runs through the motor mount. Once you get the 14mm bolt out remove the other three 17mm and lay the crossmember out of the way
Now its time for the t-case. The top three bolts can be a pain, so be take your time and it will all work out. There are 6 total bolts holding the t-case in. Again having a air or electric impact here will be greatly helpfull.
(EDIT) My car has acd. LOoking at the picture the bolt to the furthest left will be blocked by the acd line. Some say you dont need to take this off to get the bolt out but i find it the easiest. DO NOT LOSE the cpper gaskets!!!
Once you get all the bolts out, use a pry bar to separate the t-case from the transmission. Dont worry it wont fall out of the car. Be carefull not to lose the orings that seal it up agains the transmission. Once you have it split apart tie the tcase up to hold it out of your way.
Next remove the inspection cover from the transmission. There is 2 10mm and 2 14 mm bolts holding this on.
Then there is a 10mm bolt holding a bracket to the transmission. Remove this along with the 14 mm bolt holding the transmission to the block. Now you can move the starter cables up and out of the way. There is also a 14 mm bold in about the same location exept on the back side of the transmission that also needs to come off.
At this point put a jack under the seam of the transmissoin to help support it.
Now remove the 17mm bolt from the top drivers side. Your gonna have to work it a little to get the bolt out. Then remove the 14 mm bolt from the back side motor mount. Same thing here, your gonna have to work it a little to get it out.
Now with both those bolts removed lower the transmission enough to get the 4 17mm bolts of the top of the transmission.
Depending on the angle and all other factors involved you may need to remove the rear motor mount from the transmission. I didnt need to do this.
Now remove the access hole plug on the bottom of the transmission. You need to pop the tob off for the transmission to come out. This can be a pita your first time. I have found a trick that helps me. I put a bolt in to hold the fork in the engaged position.
Once you have this bolt in stick a screwdriver in the access hole in between the tob, and the wedge collar. Rotate the screw driver 90 degrees and it should pop right off.
Now all you have to do is remove the remaining transmission bolts. Once all the bolts are out use a prybar to split the transmission from the engine. Now this is where a friend would really come in handy. I used a old couch cushion to catch the transmission as I guided it out.
I will try and get the pics I missed during install. I get caught up and sometime forget to take pictures.